December 12, 2025
The ingredient-based skincare trend
More and more people want to understand what they use on their skin.
More and more people want to understand what they use on their skin.
Ingredient-led skincare is no longer just a niche hobby for beauty fans. More and more consumers want to truly understand what they are putting on their skin. Grail helps with this by showing what cosmetic products contain and making INCI lists easier to understand.
Shoppers are no longer looking only at the brand, influencer, or packaging. They are examining ingredients more consciously too.
According to a 2023 Euromonitor study, 44% of consumers check the ingredient list on a cosmetic product at least sometimes, and this ratio is even higher among 18-34 year olds.
What is an INCI list?
INCI is the ingredient list of cosmetic products, where every ingredient must be listed in descending order by quantity. This list helps you understand what a product might do, what to avoid, and what to look for.
Grail helps so you do not have to figure this out alone: scan the barcode, and the app highlights what the cream contains and how well it fits your skin.
What should you watch for in moisturizers?
A good moisturizer does not only bring water into the skin, it helps keep it there while supporting the skin barrier. These are some key ingredients worth looking for on the INCI list:
Humectants are water-binding ingredients that draw moisture from the air or deeper skin layers, helping increase and maintain hydration. Classic examples include Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate.
Emollients are fatty, oily substances that fill tiny uneven areas on the skin surface, making skin feel softer and smoother while reducing tightness. Common examples include Squalane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Shea Butter, Cocoa Butter, Jojoba Oil, Sunflower Oil, and Dimethicone.
Occlusives create a physical protective layer on the skin surface, helping prevent water loss and preserve hydration. Examples include Petrolatum, Lanolin, Mineral Oil, and Beeswax. Effective moisturizer formulas may also include Panthenol and Ceramides.
What should you watch for in serums?
With serums, it is especially important that active ingredients appear in high concentration, meaning near the beginning of the INCI list. These can include Niacinamide, vitamin C derivatives, Retinol, Retinal, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tranexamic Acid, as well as Propanediol and Butylene Glycol, which can help actives penetrate the skin.
What should you watch for in cleansers?
The first and one of the most important steps in a skincare routine is proper cleansing. Formulas that are too strong, foaming, or drying can often cause irritation, tightness, or dryness, especially for sensitive skin.
Transparent gel cleansers usually cleanse more strongly, while milky or creamy textures are gentler and may be better for dry, sensitive skin.
Gentle, skin-friendly cleansers can include Coco-Glucoside and Lauryl Glucoside, two mild non-ionic surfactants. Although product pH does not appear on the INCI list, it is worth choosing a cleanser with a pH close to the skin's natural value of about 5.5.
What should you watch for in sunscreens?
A sunscreen's INCI list says a lot about how effective, long-lasting, and skin-friendly the formula may be. Modern photostable filters such as Tinosorb S and Uvinul A Plus protect effectively against UVA and UVB rays. Mineral filters such as Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide can be useful for sensitive skin. Film-formers help distribute SPF evenly, but they need thorough cleansing at the end of the day.