The rise of ingredient-based skincare

Ingredient-led skincare isn't just a hobby for a small group of beauty enthusiasts anymore. More and more shoppers genuinely want to understand what they're putting on their skin. That's where Grail comes in — an app that shows you what's actually in your cosmetics and helps you make sense of the INCI list.

Shoppers aren't just looking at the brand, the influencer or the packaging anymore — they're paying attention to the ingredients themselves.

According to a 2023 Euromonitor study, 44% of consumers at least occasionally check the ingredient list on a cosmetic product — and that number is even higher among 18–34 year-olds.

What is the INCI list?

INCI (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients) is the official list of ingredients on a cosmetic product, with each one shown in descending order by quantity. This list helps you figure out what a product is likely to do, what to look out for, and what to avoid.

Grail does the hard work for you: scan the barcode and the app highlights what's in the cream and how well it suits your skin.

What to look for in a moisturizer

Moisturizers in Grail

A good moisturizer doesn't just deliver water to the skin — it also helps it stay there, while strengthening the skin barrier. Here are some key ingredients worth looking for on the INCI list:

Humectants are water-binding ingredients that pull moisture from the air or from the deeper layers of the skin, helping you boost and maintain hydration. Classic examples include Glycerin and Sodium Hyaluronate.

Geek and Gorgeous - 101 Liquid Hydration

Explore thousands more moisturizer ingredient lists in Grail

Emollients are oily, fat-like substances that fill in the tiny irregularities on the surface of the skin, making it feel soft and smooth and easing that dry, tight feeling. They don't bind water on their own, but they're essential for that hydrated feel. A common emollient is Squalane, a light, skin-identical lipid that doesn't clog pores. Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is similarly effective — a stable, well-tolerated fatty acid derivative. The fatty alcohol Cetearyl Alcohol doesn't dry the skin out; it softens it. Shea Butter is a natural butter especially recommended for dry skin, while Cocoa Butter, Jojoba Oil, and Sunflower Oil are nourishing plant oils that protect and regenerate the skin. Dimethicone, a silicone-based emollient, leaves a silky feel without making the skin greasy.

Occlusives are ingredients that form a physical protective layer on the surface of the skin, preventing water loss (TEWL) and helping skin stay hydrated — especially helpful for dry or compromised skin. One effective occlusive is Petrolatum, which can cut water evaporation by up to 99%; Lanolin also softens and protects. Mineral Oil is another widely used, well-tolerated option, as is Beeswax, a natural film-former often found in balms and lip products.
Effective moisturizing formulas also include Panthenol, a soothing, regenerating provitamin, and Ceramides (NP, AP, EOP), which replenish the skin's own lipids, strengthen the barrier, and support long-lasting hydration.

Find everything matched to your skin type in Grail. Available on iOS and Android.

What to look for in a serum

Serums in Grail

With serums, it's especially important that the active ingredients are present at high concentrations — meaning they appear near the top of the INCI list. That's a sign they're actually in there in meaningful amounts.
Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): an effective anti-inflammatory and tone-evening ingredient that only works well at concentrations of at least 4–5%. Look for it around positions 2 to 6 on the INCI list.
Vitamin C derivatives (e.g. Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Ethyl Ascorbic Acid): more stable than pure Ascorbic Acid, so less irritating and with a longer shelf life — though they work more slowly.
Retinol, Retinal, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate: one of the most effective anti-aging ingredient groups, though they can be irritating, especially on sensitive skin. Look for a serum that pairs them with soothing ingredients like Panthenol, Allantoin, Bisabolol, or Centella Asiatica extract.
Tranexamic Acid: a targeted ingredient for dark spots, melasma, and discoloration. Effective even at 1–2%, so it often sits near the bottom of the INCI list — but that doesn't mean it's any less effective.
Propanediol and Butylene Glycol: technical helpers, but not just solvents. They improve how well the active ingredients penetrate the skin and they have hydrating properties of their own, so they often appear in well-designed serums.

What to look for in a cleanser

Cleansers in Grail

The first — and one of the most important — steps in your skincare routine is proper cleansing. Formulas that are too harsh, too foamy, or too drying can lead to irritation, tightness or dryness, especially on sensitive skin. It's worth avoiding ingredients like Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, and Alcohol Denat., which aggressively strip oils and moisture from the skin.

Clear, gel-textured cleansers tend to clean more deeply, while milky or creamy textures are gentler and often better suited to dry, sensitive skin.

Gentle, skin-friendly cleansers often contain Coco-Glucoside and Lauryl Glucoside — two mild, non-ionic surfactants that clean without disrupting the skin's natural balance. Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate is a modern, well-tolerated surfactant developed specifically for sensitive skin.
The pH of a product isn't listed on the INCI label, but it's worth choosing a cleanser with a pH close to the skin's natural ~5.5. This helps preserve the skin's barrier and reduces the chance of irritation.

What to look for in a sunscreen

Sunscreens in Grail

A sunscreen's INCI list tells you a lot about how effective, long-lasting, and skin-friendly the formula will be. The type and placement of UV filters, plus the supporting ingredients, all help you make a good choice.
Modern, photostable filters like Tinosorb S (Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine) and Uvinul A Plus (Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate) provide strong UVA and UVB protection while being less irritating. You'll mostly find these in European formulas.
Physical (mineral) filters like Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide don't absorb into the skin — they reflect UV rays. This is especially helpful for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin. The downside: they can leave a white cast, particularly on deeper skin tones.
Older, potentially irritating filters include Octocrylene and Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (OMC). For some skin types, these can trigger rashes, itching or comedogenic reactions, so it's worth avoiding them on sensitive skin.
Film-formers in sunscreens — like VP/Hexadecene Copolymer or Polyhydroxystearic Acid — help SPF spread evenly and stay water-resistant. But if you don't cleanse them off properly at the end of the day, they can clog pores and worsen the condition of your skin.